Motorhome Around Australia: The Big Run to Ceduna

Motorhome Around Australia - The Big Run to Ceduna: Reuniting with the Jacksons

The run from Home to Ceduna: It could have been quite a bit shorter but I had to go to Mildura and Mt Gambier for work. But I'm glad we did because of both spots were amazing.

Days 1-17: 13 March to 29 March

The day had finally come! After months of planning and logistical wrangling, we were ready to leave work behind and hit the road with Adieu, our trusty motorhome. This trip around Australia had been my dream for years. Now it was happening, and we couldn’t wait to dive into the history, landscapes, and oddball stories that make this country so fascinating.

1. The Sprint to Broken Hill

This wasn’t our usual meandering style. We powered through 400-500 kilometers a day to get to Broken Hill as quickly as possible. Adieu handled the long drives beautifully bearing in mind she was towing Suzi, but we made sure to give her (and ourselves) a few interesting pit stops along the way.

• Day 1: Leyburn to visit Uncle Vince
• Day 2: Leyburn to Narrabri
• Day 3: Narrabri to Cobar
• Day 4: Cobar to Broken Hill

Highlights on the Sprint

• The Big Bogan: This giant statue in Nyngan embodies the cheeky, irreverent humour of the outback. It’s a must-see, even if just for the photo op.

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  I couldn't help pointing out the dog's name to Rusty

  
  
• Feral Goats: Between Cobar and Broken Hill, we spotted plenty of feral goats. They muster up to 20,000 at a time using motorbikes, dogs, and helicopters. It’s an impressive operation, considering these goats are pests, often used for pet food.

• Wilcannia and the Darling River: Crossing the Darling River was a highlight for me—straight out of primary school Social Studies. I was itching to stop and explore, but we pressed on, determined to reach Broken Hill.

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2. Silver City: The Rich History of Broken Hill

The Grant Entrance to Silver City

Broken Hill, also known as the Silver City, sits atop one of the world’s richest deposits of silver, lead, and zinc. This town has a rugged, pioneering spirit, shaped by its mining history and the people who came here seeking their fortune. It’s also home to BHP, the company that put Australia on the map as a mining powerhouse.

The Workies Club reflecting Broken Hill being the Union Capital of Australia

One of my heroes and the Father of Federation was in town in 1890.

Broken Hill is a modern city with wide streets and traffic lights

All set up under the annexe of Adieu. It's Happy Hour!

Now that' a cheeky highjacking of the icon BHP brand. They don't own those letters right?

Broken Hill was prosperous and had streets lights early in the piece 

Ahh bliss. There's no shortage of excellent coffee in this town. I'll come again! 

We set up camp at a caravan park near the Broken Hill Cemetery. I love visiting old cemeteries—they’re like open-air museums, full of stories waiting to be uncovered. This one was divided along sectarian lines, with Catholic, Protestant, and Muslim and Jewish sections clearly marked. It’s a testament to the diversity of the early mining community.

Call me quirky, but I made a beeline for the dead centre of town. Don't be shy about it, Rusty and Kaz don't hold back. It was full of history and culture.

The Legend of Percy Brookfield

Percy Brookfield MLA was a radical socialist

One of the most fascinating graves belongs to Percy Brookfield, a radical socialist and trade unionist who was shot dead in 1921 while trying to disarm a deranged Russian man. Percy’s fiery politics and his vocal opposition to conscription during WW1 made him a divisive figure, but he was beloved in Broken Hill for standing up for the working class. His obelisk memorial stands as a tribute to a man who lived and died fighting for his beliefs.

This stood out out like a beacon. I had to know about this man.

Percy's vocal opposition to conscription flies in the face of the traditional ANZAC narrative. I was taken by his story because it stands in stark contrast to the Snowball marches which were recruitment marches to get more troops for the Great War. I learned about these when I saw a statue in Gilgandra honouring the Cooee March from Gilgandra to Sydney. 26 men march through town calling out "Cooee" to get attention and get more recruits. It was a resounding success as far as the recruitment went.

Cooee! Cooee! 26 men marched from Gilgandra to Sydney on a recruiting march for volunteers

The Battle of Broken Hill

Did you know that Broken Hill was the site of the only documented enemy attack on Australian soil during WW1? On New Year’s Day 1915, two men of Afghan and Punjabi descent ambushed a picnic train, killing four civilians and wounding seven others before being shot dead by police and military. It was a shocking act of violence that fuelled anti-Muslim sentiment across the country. The attackers, disguised as ice cream vendors, raised a homemade Turkish flag and declared their allegiance to the Ottoman Empire’s call for jihad against the Allies. It’s a dark, lesser-known chapter of Australian history that’s still remembered here.

A replica of the cart the attackers used for the New Year's Day attack in 1915

Mad Max and Silverton

Silverton's entrance statement reflects its status as a significant source of wealth in the early days

We had the heads up from Rusty and Kaz that this was an absolute must-see. Silverton, around twenty-five kilometres to the west of Broken Hill, is famous for its connection to the Mad Max film series.

You can see why this was a great spot for a movie like Mad Max

Its stark, desolate landscape was the perfect backdrop for the iconic 1981 film, Mad Max 2: The Road Warrior, starring Mel Gibson. The area’s arid, red terrain and abandoned buildings embodied the post-apocalyptic setting of the movie.

Hardly a blade of grass in sight. 

The Silverton Hotel, a popular filming location, features memorabilia and photos from the production. Today, Silverton remains a major draw for Mad Max fans, offering tours and exhibits, including the Mad Max Museum, dedicated to the film’s legacy and cultural impact. We loved the pub and the town along with all the memorabilia around the walls.

It was certainly the day for a coldie at the Silverton Hotel.

There's not a square to spare. The display and dense and fascinating. I spent my time reading the words of wisdom hanging for the roof. They were on string and moving. It wasn't the beer! 

The Broken Hill Sculptures

The Broken Hill Sculptures are on a massive scale. The one on the right is the sculpture.

Sandstone is the theme out here. Well worth making sure you come out at sunset

After our cooling ale at Silverton and a little break back at the motorhome, we made it a priority to visit the Broken Hill Sculptures in the late afternoon. The Broken Hill Sculptures, located in the Living Desert Reserve just outside Broken Hill, are one of the region’s most iconic attractions. Created in 1993 during the Sculpture Symposium, this open-air exhibit features 12 impressive sandstone sculptures, crafted by artists from around the world.

The sculptures are made from locally sourced sandstone, each weighing several tons, and were carved on-site over a 53-day period. Each piece has a unique design and symbolism, reflecting themes of nature, history, and spirituality.

Set atop a hill within the Living Desert Reserve, the sculptures are especially stunning at sunset, when the changing light casts dramatic shadows and highlights the warm, earthy tones of the stone. The site offers panoramic views of the surrounding outback, making it a popular destination for visitors and a symbol of Broken Hill’s artistic spirit and connection to the land.

Don’t forget they close the gates or you’ll be locked in overnight!

Pro Hart: The Outback’s Rebel Artist

Legendary artist Pro Hart at work 

No visit to Broken Hill would be complete without seeing the Pro Hart Gallery. Pro Hart, born Kevin Charles Hart, was a miner turned artist whose vibrant depictions of outback life made him a beloved figure. He painted with everything from brooms to spray guns and even food. Art critics often dismissed his work as "factory-like," but I couldn’t care less. To me, his paintings capture the chaotic, colourful spirit of the outback.

Just soaking it in. There was an informative video that tells you are a lot about Pro Hart's life.

Now that is style! His Roller was a mobile mural. 

I've wanted to see this gallery since the day I saw the picture he gifted Lindy Chamberlain hanging on her wall. It was called The Judgement at Ayers Rock. Just like Pro Hart thumbed his nose at the establishment and walked out a secure underground mine job to chance his hand as an artist, he painted this when it was fashionable to make dingo jokes at BBQs.

Pro Hart's words about The Judgement at Ayers Rock: The painting ‘The Judgement’ depicts what I believed to be true. The tracker outside the window of the courtroom is frustrated that the law did not want his evidence and I believed there was a conspiracy to cover up this evidence. The Judge I painted blindfold as he was blinded to the real facts. The jury are shown with masks and dark glasses because they did not see or were not told the true details and were kept in the dark.

My personal favourite was his mural of Australia—a sprawling, chaotic masterpiece. I tried to photograph it, but it’s impossible to capture its scale. Instead, I bought a postcard version. It should be proudly displayed on Adieu’s dashboard.

The Miners Memorial

An absolute must see! The Miners Memorial in Broken Hill is a striking tribute to the men and women who lost their lives working in the region’s mines. Perched atop the Line of Lode, a massive mullock heap that marks the site of Broken Hill’s historic mining activity, the memorial honours over 800 miners who have died since mining began in the late 1800s. 

The names of the deceased, along with the dates and causes of their deaths, are engraved on the steel walls of the memorial, highlighting the dangerous and often tragic nature of early mining work. Accidents such as rock falls, machinery failures, and gas leaks were common causes of death. 

The site offers panoramic views of Broken Hill and serves as a sombre reminder of the town’s industrial past and the heavy toll mining has taken on the local community. It is a poignant stop for visitors seeking to understand the hardships of Australia’s mining history. 

The youngest person to die in the mines at Broken Hill was William Stuart, who was just 12 years old when he tragically lost his life in 1886. At that time, it was not uncommon for young boys to work in the mines, often employed in dangerous tasks such as ore sorting or carrying equipment. 

My heart bled as I saw all those young lives cut short, and old men as well. They probably had no choice but to keep toiling until they dropped or died.

I understand why Percy Brookfield received the send off he did and the obelisk.

I understand after a visit to the Miners Memorial why this town is the Trade Union capital of Australia

The Day the Air Conditioner Broke

Boo hoo. We lost on our air-conditioning on the hottest day you can imagine. It stayed hot well into the night.

I just have to have to share this first world problem that beset us on our last day in Broken Hill.

We were making it through the blistering 40-degree days by retreating to Adieu and cranking up the air conditioner. Until, of course, that's when it decided to give up on us. No amount of pleading or fiddling with the remote could bring it back to life. We had no choice but to spend the evening submerged in the caravan park’s pool and stay there way after the sun went down. We survived the heatwave, but it was a stark reminder of the importance of flexibility (and a good sense of humour) when traveling. It was the day before we were off on the next leg of our journey so I didn't look for a repair. We were driving into winter so I didn't get it fixed for months when we arrived in Broome and things warmed up. $150 fix.

2. The Mighty Murray River in Mildura and Renmark

Travelling south from Broken Hill we ran into some headwinds which slowed us down a bit. We stopped for lunch at a service station that COVID had killed off. This was to become a theme that we become acutely aware of coming to near crisis running across the top of the Eyre Peninsula.

And then some Social Studies excitement. We came to Wentworth.

Wentworth is on the confluence of Murray and the Darling Rivers. I knew that!

Arriving in Mildura felt like stepping into an oasis. The town, known for its vineyards and citrus groves, thrives thanks to the irrigation systems fed by the Murray River. The river itself is a lifeline, stretching across three states and bringing water from Queensland’s Condamine, Bolonne, Paroo Rivers into the Murray-Darling Basin. It’s another one of those primary school Social Studies topics that stuck with me. I was thrilled to finally see it up close. Most of the Murray's water comes from the Australian Alps. About 25% comes from the Queensland rivers and the real impact is felt when Queensland has its big floods. We were smelling Queensland flood water because there had been major flooding a few months before we arrived.

Primary school Social Studies meets reality. Sitting on the NSW side of the Murray looking across the river to Victoria on the other side of the river.

I was determined to experience the river properly, so I booked a three-day houseboat rental once we arrived in Renmark. We floated down the Murray on a little boat named Aqua Squirt, soaking in the peaceful river scenes and enjoying the wildlife. It was blissful—just us, the water, and a few curious ducks. Oh, there was that eastern brown snake swimming across the whole river.

I was completely up for living this aqua travelling dream.

We were able to pull right alongside and unload the necessities for three days meandering on the Mighty Murray. I'd been dreaming about this for decades.

Adieu's pretty spacious as far as motorhomes goes, but Aqua Squirt was another level

Driving Aqua Squirt was quite a different proposition to a motorhome.

There was a range of scenery along the banks from swamps to washed up cliffs.

Aqua Squirt on the banks of Kylie Island upstream from Renmark

Our land-based adventures on Kylie Island found plenty of evidence of the big floods. Thanks Qld.

Some elegant locals.

Aqua Squirt Bliss on the Mighty Murray (Poem)

The river breeze caresses our skin,
As Aqua Squirt rocks us gently within.
Thirty-eight years since our last houseboat ride,
But it felt like yesterday, floating with the tide.

6. Mt Gambier and the Enigmatic Blue Lake

The colour was another level. We just loved walking around it.

After leaving the Murray, we headed south to Mt Gambier, a city built on an extinct volcano. The Blue Lake, which mysteriously changes colour to a vibrant cobalt blue each summer, was a highlight.

We found the Umperton Sinkhole for a unique experience. It was underground garden with a full perspective of the sky.

We loved the Umpherston Sinkhole, a sunken garden that felt like stepping into another world. It was originally landscaped over a century ago and is still spectacular today.

7. The Smallest Bushranger: John Francis Peggotty

While traveling through South Australia, we came across one of my favorite quirky historical tales—the story of the smallest bushranger, John Francis Peggotty. Standing just over three feet tall, Peggotty was an unlikely outlaw, but his legend lives on for good reason.

Originally from Ireland, Peggotty came to Australia during the gold rush but struggled to find work. He turned to crime, becoming known for his petty thefts along the goldfields. Too small to ride a horse, Peggotty chose an ostrich as his mount! The sight of a tiny bushranger riding an ostrich added to his legend, making him both feared and laughed at.

I got to ride a life-size ostrich at the banks of Lake Alexandrina where the Mighty Murray ends.

Peggotty eventually fled to the Coorong region of South Australia, hiding among the dense scrub and wetlands. Here, he became known as the “Birdman of the Coorong,” using his ostrich to traverse rough terrain. His luck ran out during a final standoff, where he was fatally shot, ending the tale of Australia’s smallest and most unusual bushranger.

This was a delightful reminder of the strange and wonderful characters that color Australia’s history—a perfect story to share as we drove along in Adieu, imagining what it might have been like to see a tiny man on a giant bird racing across the landscape.

Overlooking the actual point where the Mighty Murray flows into Lake Alexandrina

8. The Surprise of Lake Bumbunga: Australia’s Pink Wonder

As we were cruising along, aiming to make it to Port Augusta by the end of the day, a flash of bright pink caught my eye to the right. It was one of those unexpected road trip moments when you almost do a double-take. Could it be? We'd been talking about it, had we finally a pink lake?

We’d stumbled upon Lake Bumbunga, one of Australia’s most stunning salt lakes, famous for its shifting hues. The vibrant color is caused by algae reacting to the high salt content, especially during warmer months. It felt like we were driving past a surreal painting. We had disappointments time again with lakes that were supposed to be pink but this one was the real deal!

Naturally, I pulled over for a closer look (and an impromptu photo session with Adieu). The lake’s surface sparkled under the sun, casting a pink glow that was almost otherworldly. I couldn’t help but think of Alex Cockburn, the eccentric local who once declared this area the independent "Principality of Bumbunga" in the 1980s. He even built a miniature replica of Stonehenge to attract tourists—because, why not?

There was no thought of wading in, because it was really a big salt pan, so we walked out for far enough to take the happy snaps. We soaked up the view, snapped a few more photos, and got back on the road with Adieu, marvelling at the unexpected beauty that pops up when you least expect it.

9. South Australia was a Convict-Free Colony with a Scandalous Past

We were driving past the Port Wakefield turnoff, making good time on our way to Port Augusta, when my mind wandered back to one of those curious bits of history that tend to pop up when you least expect it. Port Wakefield might seem like just another stop on the highway, but its name brings to mind the strange, scandalous story of Edward Gibbon Wakefield—the man who helped shape South Australia without ever setting foot here.

Wakefield was a British reformer who devised the theory of "systematic colonisation," envisioning a colony free of the convict stain that marked much of Australia’s early settlement. His plan was ambitious: sell land at a fixed price to fund the immigration of skilled, free labourers, creating a balanced society of landowners and workers. This idealistic vision laid the foundations for South Australia as a planned, convict-free colony.

But here’s the twist—Wakefield developed his colonisation theories from inside Newgate Prison, where he was serving time for the infamous "Shrigley Abduction." In a bid to marry into wealth, Wakefield had kidnapped 15-year-old Ellen Turner, convincing her that her father had agreed to the marriage. The plot quickly fell apart when Ellen’s family caught wind of the scheme. The marriage was annulled, and Wakefield found himself in jail, left with plenty of time to dream up his grand plans for a new kind of colony.

This a picture from the Canterbury. He moved to New Zealand to see the handiwork of his whole theory in action. 

I couldn’t help but chuckle at the irony. The very man who envisioned a pristine, respectable colony had hatched his brilliant ideas while serving time for a rather unsavoury crime. This played right into my own origins, from a multitude of Irish convicts send to Sydney and Hobart. Up your nose Wakefield! It’s these unexpected twists in history that make road trips with Adieu so delightful. You never know which strange tale might come to mind as you roll post yet another seemingly ordinary town.

10. Snowtown: A Chilling Reminder on the Road to Port Augusta

As we continued our drive towards Port Augusta, a road sign caught my eye: Snowtown. It seemed like a pleasant enough name, conjuring up images of wintery scenes and small-town charm. But then it hit me—Snowtown wasn’t known for picturesque snowfalls; it was infamous for something far darker.

The Snowtown murders, also known as the “Bodies in the Barrels” case, were some of Australia’s most gruesome crimes. Between 1992 and 1999, a group led by John Bunting tortured and killed 12 victims, targeting those they deemed as "undesirables." The horrific acts came to light when police discovered eight dismembered bodies hidden in barrels inside an abandoned bank vault in Snowtown.

I shivered, despite the heat outside. It’s the kind of story that sticks with you, not just for the brutality of the crimes, but for the shocking setting—a sleepy little town on the edge of the outback, where such horrors seem unthinkable. I thought about stopping to see the bank vault-turned-crime scene, now a grim tourist attraction, but decided against it. The atmosphere in Adieu felt lighter as we pressed on, leaving the town and its dark history behind.

It’s moments like these that remind you of the stark contrasts of Australian road trips. One minute you’re marvelling at a pink lake, and the next, you’re passing a place with a history that could be straight out of a crime novel. It’s a good thing Adieu has a way of keeping our spirits high, even when the stories get a bit macabre.

11. Port Augusta: A Breath Before the Eyre Peninsula Challenge

After a long stretch of driving, we rolled into Port Augusta, also known as the "Gateway to the Outback." This historic town sits at the head of the Spencer Gulf, where the arid inland meets the coast. It was a welcome pit stop, giving us a couple of days to regroup and catch our breath before tackling the Eyre Peninsula—a region known for its vast, empty highways and unpredictable weather.

We took the time to explore the local sights, gazing at the distant Flinders Ranges, which brought to mind Mathew Flinders, who discovered the island I live on. This explorer who was everywhere described what became Coochiemudlo Island as Island No 6 in Moreton Bay on 19 July 1799. He landed at what is now known as Norfolk Beach (after his vessel) and walked to highest point of the island and decided not go further south because there were too many sandbanks. FYI he didn't spot the Brisbane River.

Flinders was the first to circumnavigate Australia and helped give us our county's name.

We stocked up on supplies, topped off Adieu’s tanks, and double-checked our route. With the next leg of the journey taking us deep into remote territory, we didn’t want to leave anything to chance.

12. Battling Headwinds Across the Eyre Peninsula

Leaving Port Augusta, we felt prepared for a long, steady drive across the Eyre Peninsula. But the outback had other plans. On the last leg, we hit a strong headwind blowing in from the west. It felt like driving into a wall of air, and it didn’t take long to realise that this was going to be a problem. Adieu might be a reliable motorhome, but even she couldn’t cut through the wind without guzzling more fuel than usual. There was yet another service station that COVID has killed off so we had less range that expected.

The wind was real

We watched the fuel gauge drop alarmingly fast. What should have been a comfortable drive turned into a tense game of conservation. I slowed our speed down to 65 kilometres per hour, turned off cruise control on the hills, and accelerated gently to avoid burning through diesel. Still, the headwinds were relentless, and we began to worry we might not make it to the next fuel stop. We looked at our maps and spotted a town off the road and it had a store. We phoned ahead. Yes, they had fuel and would be open.

Lesson Learned: The Importance of Fuel Planning

The experience was a stark reminder of just how vital it is to plan fuel stops carefully, especially when headwinds can wreak havoc with your range. It’s easy to underestimate the impact of wind on a motorhome, but this was a lesson we wouldn’t forget anytime soon. For the rest of the trip, I made it a point to slow down early, call ahead to confirm fuel availability, and carry extra diesel on Suzi’s roof rack—just in case. And when we are not taking Suzi, make room in the hatches.

With the crisis averted we pushed and discovered Wudinna, discovered good coffee and a half-reasonable pie and my new bestie.

There we go. A great local pie and good coffee in downtown Wudinna.

I met up with my new best mate after a good coffee and pie

13. Ceduna: Gateway to the Nullarbor (and a Quest for Good Coffee)

Rolling into Ceduna felt like reaching a major milestone. It’s known as the "Gateway to the Nullarbor," the last stop before the long, barren stretch of road that every Aussie road-tripper has heard about. We were excited to catch up with our friends Rusty and Kaz, who had already set up at the caravan park. But instead of relaxing right away, we found ourselves on a mission—trying to get solid, up-to-date information about the Nullarbor crossing.

Rolling into Ceduna at last and without running out of fuel!

Our first night in Ceduna was in a caravan park out of town. We were arriving too late for where Rusty and Kaz were because they lock the gate overnight because of safety concerns.

The Challenge of Finding Real Information

We’d heard all kinds of conflicting stories about what lay ahead. Some travellers warned us about massive trucks barreling down the highway at 130 km/h, while others shared tales of long stretches without any fuel stops, or the dangers of hitting wombats and even camels. Then there was the issue of water—everyone seemed to agree on one thing: never ask for water. It’s a scarce resource out there, and you’re expected to carry your own.

Despite scouring the internet, talking to fellow travellers, and even chatting with locals, it was surprisingly difficult to get reliable, current information about road conditions, fuel availability, and what we should actually expect on the Nullarbor. Many of the stories we heard were outdated or exaggerated, leaving us feeling like we were preparing for an expedition rather than a road trip.

This uncertainty affected how we spent our time in Ceduna. Instead of the leisurely sightseeing we’d hoped for, we dedicated our first day to stocking up and prepping Adieu.

But at least I found good coffee. Not so much the pies.

I picked up extra water containers—a 20-litre and a 10-litre with taps—and secured them on Suzi’s roof rack. We also added a 10-litre diesel container, just in case. With fuel stations possibly being hit-or-miss, we didn’t want to take any chances.

We had the heads up on what we might be pushing against going to the West.

Lessons Learned: Preparing for the Unknown

Getting accurate information can be surprisingly hard—Talk to locals, fellow travellers, and use online resources, but be prepared for gaps and outdated advice.

Over-prepare rather than under-prepare—Carry extra water and fuel, even if you think you won’t need it. Better safe than sorry on a road like the Nullarbor.

Be flexible with your time—You might need to spend extra hours (or even a full day) sorting out logistics before tackling a big stretch like the Nullarbor.

Coffee wins, pies lose—Not every small-town pie is a winner, but finding a good coffee spot can make up for it.

14. The Nullarbor Awaits: Ready or Not

With Adieu loaded up and our nerves settled (mostly), we felt as ready as we could be for the Nullarbor. The road ahead was long and the stories were daunting, but that’s part of the adventure, isn’t it? We’d done our best to prepare, and now it was time to face whatever the outback had in store. Stay tuned as we take on the Nullarbor Plain—next stop, the great unknown!