Motorhome Around Australia: Crossing the Nullarbor: Endless Horizons

A nullarbor crossing is taken to be between Ceduna in the east and Norseman in the west almost 1,300km

Days 18-20: March 30 to April 2

It was on. Preparations were done, and now we were in the big dance—crossing the Nullarbor! Right out of the blocks, we got lucky with dream weather: no headwinds from the west. Score!

The windy weather is next week!

As we drove along my mind went to 1969 when met some English gypsies who had come to Australia. They talked with animation about their crossing of the Nullarbor. Only they called it the "Narrabar" and no amount of subtly correcting them ever achieved a change in their pronunciation.

1 The Penong Windmill Museum

Penong has the best collection of windmills I’ve ever seen. In a land where water and wind shaped the lives of early settlers, these towering structures were vital for harnessing underground water.

The museum, started in 2016, features over 20 restored windmills, sourced from the Eyre Peninsula, the Nullarbor, and as far away as Alice Springs. It’s all thanks to the dedication of local “Windmill Warriors,” who spent countless hours preserving this piece of history.

The star? Big Bruce, the largest windmill in Australia. With a span of 35 feet, it was once used by the Commonwealth Railways to pump water for steam trains. Totally worth the stop!

The was an easy place to get really get lost!

Bruce: the star of the show

On oddity if ever I saw one

2. Lake MacDonnell – A Pink Lake That Delivered

After too many disappointments with not-so-pink lakes, we took a chance on Lake MacDonnell. Wow, it didn’t just deliver—it dazzled! This pink lake actually had water so it wasn't just a dry lakebed.

The sunny day brought out vibrant colors, and with no plan, we lucked into perfect conditions. We parked halfway along the causeway and pulled out the drone. Flying it low across the lake, we captured great footage of the contrasting pink on one side of the causeway and normal water on the other.

3 The Real Nullarbor

Driving through the Nullarbor, its meaning hit home: Null (no) + Arbor (tree). Right—no trees!

Yet, life persists. The plains, dominated by saltbush and bluebush, hosts kangaroos, wombats (don’t hit one—it’s like hitting a rock I'm told), and even camels.

We were travelling on the Eyre Highway and I couldn't help thinking about that dogged explorer who gave the highway its name. Edward John Eyre was the epitome of resilience. In 1840-41, Eyre crossed the Nullarbor with his Aboriginal companion, Wylie. His team deserted him, stealing supplies; two men later murdered his servant, Baxter. Refusing rescue sent by friends, Eyre and Wylie pressed on, surviving off this barren land before finally reaching Albany after six brutal arduous months.

 

4 The Nullarbor Roadhouse

After 300+ kilometers, the Nullarbor Roadhouse was a sight for sore eyes. Fuel at $2.78 per litre which was double elsewhere. No complaints—we might not have had headwinds to battle and we had plenty of fuel, but we always going to buy.

The roadhouse, staffed largely by overseas workers, preserves its history beautifully. I loved the nostalgic art depicting early caravanners towing caravans with their 1950 and 1960s fuel guzzlers. Opened in 1957, this place remains vital for travellers like us.

I enjoyed a hot shower in the facilities, which were all things considered well appointed and clean. Lynette used the water in the motorhome for her shower, staying true to her principle that she doesn’t do public facilities, but she did so at her water frugal best.

Adieu has plenty of onboard batteries so we didn’t worry about a powered site and we were not about to ask for water.

Highlighting the whales we would never see at the Head of the Bite because of the season.

5. The Top of the Bight

Only 30 minutes from the roadhouse, the Top of the Bight offered stunning cliff views. It was without the infamous winds and the boardwalks were safe and enjoyable. Gazing southward, we reflected on the expanse of ocean separating us from Antarctica.

6. Miles of Cliffs

Plenty of viewpoints dotted the road, but some travelers parked dangerously close to unstable cliff edges. Seriously, folks—erosion is real!

There are fools who drive through the barriers got get closer to the cliffs.

Not my idea of a Sunday ride, but the bloke in the yellow is riding a push bike across the Nullarbor

It's not like people aren't warned.

Airstrip roads highlight the remoteness. In emergencies, planes land right where you drive.

You'll notice that it is Royal Flying Doctor Service notice.

Nope, that's not a pedestrian crossing.

Sometimes you've just got to snack your way through the big distances.

7. Madura Pass

Our second night on the Nullarbor brought a change in scenery—more vegetation and a noticeable increased in elevation. Western myall trees adorned the area, their hardwood prized for woodworking. 

I initailly thought these were whales but it was mulga trees.

Starlink on Suzi’s roof provided stellar internet, making it a very connected night.

8. Caiguna – Hub of the Universe

Caiguna, “the hub of the universe,” had a delightful sardonic twist since it in the middle of nowhere. A quick stop, but memorable nonetheless.

9. The 90 Mile Straight

Australia’s longest straight road starts near Balladonia, stretching nearly 150 km to Caiguna without a single bend. It’s a feat of monotony and marvel! I really needed those lollies to keep me going.

Notice the mulgas which are so much taller that the shrubs we saw earlier.

Much further than the eye can see.

10. Balladonia

At Balladonia, we not only found fuel, but a piece of space junk, and stories about the 1950s Redex trials. The coffee was decent, but the pies? I resisted temptation.

11. Ten Mile Rocks

Wiki camps located this little number. It's a beauty.

We found a camping spot in the expansive camping reserve we found in Wiki camps. 

For outstanding water thrift.

With just 15 litres to top up our water tank over the whole Nullarbor, Lynette earned legend status for her thrift.

We just couldn't believe that rain found us on the Nullarbor. But there you go.

Based on past experience of rain on dirt we scurried as soon as the started to rain and separated Suzi for good measure.

12. Norseman – The Finish Line

Norseman marked the end of the Eyre Highway. We’d made it without a hitch! Keen to press on, we breezed through this old mining town, bound for Esperance.

Wrap-Up on Crossing the Nullarbor

• Trucks: No issues—they zipped along at 110 not 130 kph.
• Fuel: Expensive but available at every roadhouse.
• Water: Frugal use saved us; extra reserves were a comfort.
• Roadkill: Surprisingly sparse—no camels spotted.
• Wind: None to speak of, which made a huge difference.

We were passed by 3 truck travelling together. Adieu's 2-way was useful for this situation.